That’s Mandarin: Calligraphy and Culture

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I distinctly remember, a few years ago, at the start of my weekly Chinese lesson when my tutor said, “Okay, today we learn how to write 汉字.”  I thought she was joking. I laughed. She didn’t.

She wasn’t joking.

汉字 (hànzì) is the name of the character system in Mandarin Chinese. It’s said that you need to know at least 3,000 characters to read a newspaper, which seems like a whole lot until you realize there are 50,000 total. Yeah, good luck.

For some reason I thought that I was going to learn Chinese without learning 汉字 (one of countless, gross underestimations on my part in my first move to China). It’s hard to imagine that line of thought now, as 汉字 has taken over my life. I’m supposed to know about 1,200 by November when I sit for the HSK III. I’d like to say I’m well on my way…

I suppose that if you live here for a year or two (or even three or four) and are just concerned with getting around and having simple conversations, you can get by with having little to no understanding of 汉字。 But, if you want to understand the people, the culture, and of course really understand the language, 汉字 is essential.

One way I got excited about learning the infinite number of characters and stroke patterns was by watching men who do calligraphy on sidewalks in parks. They have these awesome homemade brushes, which are actually sponges with water dispensing systems. They write lines of famous text or their own original compositions. Slowly the water evaporates and the message is gone. A beautiful compliment to the ephemeral nature of language and thought. A few men were nice enough to let me try, but unused to the flow of the water and the squishy tip of the brush my characters were even more nonsensical than usual.

I was really excited when I read that That’s Mandarin would be doing a calligraphy class for their weekly cultural activity. 50 kuai, a little 啤酒 (píjiǔ, beer) and 2 hours later and I had learned the (very) basics of Chinese calligraphy. The class was mostly beginners, but would be useful for anyone who has had no experience writing calligraphy even if Mandarin skills are rather advanced. Writing calligraphy is completely different from writing 汉字 with a regular pen or pencil. You have to have the proper hold, the perfect amount of ink, the correct pressure. It’s tough stuff! But really fun and the people at That’s Mandarin were great at introducing the art. My favorite is probably my attempt to paint a panda from a printed sample. You tell me, which one is better?

Go

That’s Mandarin
273 Jiaozhou Lu Building 12 Floor 3
t: 86 21 6152-0017

Banana Monkey and Rolling Bowling @ YYT

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Last night YYT hosted an Indie-Rockabilly “dance-off”. It was a great show, with Shanghai locals Banana Monkey and Rolling Bowling from Beijing. The Clampdown DJs and DJ B.O. also battled it out on the decks before/between/after the sets. The event drew a mildly enthusiastic crowd, open to a bit of head bopping and one surprise mosh that died out pretty quickly. There has recently been a lot of interest in retro indie, rockabilly throwbacks, and all-vinyl DJ sets in the Shanghai music scene. A few weeks ago Shelter hosted Keb Darge, the famed DJ of Northern soul and rockabilly, and that all-vinyl set really brought people out of the woodwork.  The crowd is generally a combination of serious 60s groupies and people just looking for a break in the nsst-nsst-nsst nightlife Shanghai so readily offers. It’s an interesting effect, mostly informed by dance moves from the 60s, portraits of James Dean, and the “soulful” music of Lana Del Ray. Either way, the intentions are good and the music is great. Looking forward to more shows like this in the future.

Shop Fuxing Lu: Tao Yuan Gong She(桃源公社)

_1120236Street side, it may look a little underwhelming. But it’s what’s underneath that will certainly overwhelm. If you are looking for vintage or vintage inspired traditional Chinese pieces for your home, this is definitely worth a try. They have three rooms on the lower level filled to the gills with large and small pieces for home or office. Lamps, desks, tea couches, dressers, bar stools, bird cage lamps. It’s all there and it is fairly reasonably priced, especially for replicas or basic pieces. They also do free delivery, so you won’t have to worry about hauling your treasures home.  The staff speaks only Chinese, so keep that in mind if trying to arrange a complicated purchase.

What did I pick up? Well, I’ve been looking for backless bar stools for months now to give a little extra seating around my kitchen. I didn’t want anything too modern, and I was looking for a very specific height and feel. When I saw these for 450kuai each, I knew we had a deal. Sure, that is significantly more than Ikea but they are handcrafted from real wood and will last.

GO
1220 Fuxing Zhong Lu (near Jiashan Lu)

Baked Asparagus Fries

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I am still making my way through a huge bag of bread crumbs initially purchased for some avocado fries… so I’ll crunchy-bake-fry anything now. Here is the asparagus edition! (First saw this idea on Pinterest via My San Francisco Kitchen)

Ingredients

Fresh asparagus
2 eggs
About 1.5 cups of bread crumbs
Preferred seasoning for the bread crumbs (I did some salt, pepper, basil flakes, and all spice)
Preferred dipping sauce (I used this amazing sun dried tomato and basil cream cheese dip from Fields…)

Make It Happen

Preheat oven to 210C or 410F

Whisk up that egg

Season those crumbs

Prep the asparagus (wash, cut ends if needed)

Dip in eggs

Cover in crumbs

Place on a cooling rack on top of a baking sheet (you’ll want to use tin foil on the baking sheet…those crumbs get out of control)

Pop in oven for about 15-20 minutes

Plate, dip, and enjoy. They cool down quickly, and are best when hot so don’t make until you are ready to eat!!

Read: The Civil Servant’s Notebook by Wang Xiaofang

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“You can liken society to a human body, from which the metabolism of history expels cultural waste. This cultural waste is terribly dangerous, but we often confuse what is dangerous with that is great and enshrine these things as our cultural heritage.” -Wang Xiaofang, The Civil Servant’s Notebook.

The mid-level city of Dangzhou needs a new mayor, and despite the centralization of communist rule, these elections will be anything but straightforward. This cunning satire falls under officialdom fiction, a literary form gaining popularity in China as citizens look to a strong centralized government for stability while also questioning the moral and ethical fortitude of many of China’s top leaders.

Wang Xiaofang is an author on the fringe, whose most recent work, Oil Painting, is still considered untouchable by publishers as it describes the secretive imprisonment of political dissidents in Beijing. Although The Civil Servant’s Notebook was written in 2009 (and the first English translation released in 2012), it is certainly still a timely read considering the Politburo’s promised crack-down on corruption, bribery, and embezzlement. Their promises could not have been made more real than with the Bo Xilai case, which has captivated the attention of the country for the past few months. I’m excited to see how Wang Xiaofang will further enlighten my understanding of this fascinating aspect of Chinese sociopolitical life.

Read with me? (Available on Kindle or at Garden Books)

K11 Art Mall: Where Luxury, Farming, and Art Meet

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Oh, China. You’ve done it again.

The K11 Art Mall (300 Huaihai Middle Rd near Huangpi Rd) opened earlier this summer. You might assume it houses up-and-coming independent fashion and design labels, as well as some really great creative public space for artists of Shanghai to display their works. Hmmm, maybe. Or, you might think it yet another prime development for Gucci, D&G, Burberry as well as an optimal space for small scale, urban farming. Well, then you’d be right.

The main entrance on Huaihai Rd has an admittedly unique atrium with an easy access basement level beneath an architecturally  complex glass ceiling sculpture. This outside space has vertical gardens and a sound system piping in bird sounds, making you believe, if even only for a few moments, that you really have managed to escape the hustle and bustle of this busy city. But that’s about as far as the escape goes. Burberry, Gucci, Dolce & Gabana…all empty just like the rest on Huaihai and Nanjing roads. And to compliment that: over-conceptualized, over-priced restaurants and cafes.

And then there’s the third floor, which houses a small scale urban farm with veggies and…pigs! Yeah, for reals. I’m assuming the veggies (and the pigs?!) are used by the adjacent restaurant?

There are a few art instillations, but they are easy to miss next to the massive window displays of the famous luxury brands. Overall, not what I was hoping it would be but a weird enough slice of Chinese cosmopolitan life to give it a visit if you’re in the neighborhood.

Shop Huaihai Lu: Monosociety

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A nook of creativity in the otherwise soulless K11 Art Mall. Monosociety has journals, stationary and a qualitatively impressive selection of books (Bolano, Kerouac, Bukowski all in Chinese). Stamps, felt, Moleskine. If you love unique and inspired stationary and accessories, you’ll love Monosociety.

I picked up some washi tape, which I plan to put on everything.

GO

300 Huaihai  Zhing Lu (near Huangpi Lu)
K11 Art Mall, 3rd Floor
t: 86.21.6318.0800

Big Cups Big Cups Big Cups

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Good deals to be had by all at the Peep’s Square Hershey store…

(Unless you are allergic to peanuts or gluttony…this is NOT the deal for you.)

10 kuai for FOUR or 8 kuai for ONE. Confused, we inquired about this preposterous rate…turns out they are going to expire next month.

Yeah. No problem. I’m going to eat all four right now anyway.

If you find yourself in Peep’s Square over the holiday, love Reese’s, a good deal, and aren’t afraid of nearly expired sweets…I’m not sure you’re going to find a better peanut-butter-chocolate situation than this my friends.

The obvious question remains…what sorry soul has purchased one for 8? Or 3 for 24? Someone, I’m sure…

 

Scrambled Egg Stuffed Peppers

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So this might be one of the fanciest things you can do with scrambled eggs…

Ingredients

4 large eggs
Avocado
Provolone
Canned artichoke
2 bell peppers (could be red, green, or yellow)
Bread crumbs
Grated parmesan
Salt
Pepper
Olive Oil

Make It Happen

In a bowl, mix eggs, diced avocado, a bit of the canned artichoke and a few chunks of provolone

Throw that on the skillet and scramble

Preheat oven to 200C or 390F

Cut tops off peppers and hollow out

In another small bowl, season and oil about 1/2 cup of bread crumbs

In the bottom of each pepper, put a few small slices of the provolone

Stuff peppers with scrambled egg mix

Top with a large slice of provolone

Top that with bread crumbs

Pop in oven for about 10 minutes, or until cheese under the bread crumb crust has melted and crust is golden-brown

Plate and enjoy. This is a really healthy and very filling breakfast!